properly after changing pretty much the entirety below the hood of my jeep to try to restoration this stalling, bucking hassle. i have observed a brief solution. It seems the connection on the middle(white) connector that is going to the pcm has a few type of problem maintaining a connection. each time i wiggle this connector my jeep will close off or for that count number stay on. i’ve zip tied the connector almost pulling out of the pcm and that seems to be supporting wonders. My jeep would dollar, stall, backfire, shutoff, like many others i’ve been studying about. i used to be thinking if anybody had some other recommendations to a everlasting repair. do you watched its the wiring harness or the connections at the pcm? and additionally why could my jeep buck, stall more if its just rained or wet outdoor? i have spent many months and tons of money trying to restore this trouble, and are available to discover its something just a simple as this. one greater query. why might my check engine mild randomly come on after which go off whilst its bucking/ stalling i am getting codes. 12/14/forty two/forty three/55. i hook it as much as a scanner and i get MAP voltage to excessive, and primary Ignition Coil A. after which now and again it passes with no codes. any help or thoughts might be amazing?
As your connectors are unfastened / shorted / broken, and the dielectric grease has worn off, you may count on the connections to be touchy to accelerated moisture.
There are some of write-u.s.a.on this issue, but a terrific cleansing and re-lubricating of the connectors, in addition to a careful inspection of the wires inside the harness might provide a extra lasting restore.
when you have damaged wires on your harness, they may want to be repaired or replacd. in case your PCM is broken from the shorting and voltage versions over such a long time frame, you may in the end need to replace it.
go to a hardware keep or constructing deliver. select up a few 24 inch zip ties, dielectric grease, electrical contact purifier. Take reservoir out. dispose of connectors from PCM, easy plug and socket, allow them to dry. while they’re dry, apply grease and reconnect.
place zip ties vertically over the returned facet of the PCM and over the pinnacle of the connectors and cinch them down tight.
In my experience, coils are both good or horrific. on occasion you’ll get a warmth-soak difficulty so that it will motive a coil to forestall operating till it cools off once more, but intermitant stumbling/surging seems like any other trouble. Going to strive the proposal of contact cleanser and dielectric grease and spot if that healing procedures my stumble/surge difficulty as nicely.
Mine began with a (unknown to me) heat associated trouble within the PCM. before it was over i had replaced lots of sensors and relays, AND wore my PCM connectors out.
it’d now not idle from a cold start all of the manner through heat up without dieing once after idling for about five 5 minutes. it would usually crank returned up right away, then going up the street at cruise, it’d leap just like the engine shut off and returned on for a 2d. After the engine compartment got saturated with warmth, it became k. No codes
I eventually observed (after countless hours with meter, diagrams, ranting on Jeep forum, new sensors, and many others) that I could tap at the PCM with a small wrench and it’d cross dead, except it become saturated with heat.
I finally convinced my self it became the PCM in place of the connectors when the emiisions video display units at the scanner kept resetting, like i had disconnected the battery. I ran wires from the PCM to a meter at the sprint to decide i wasnt loosing voltage.
After a failed restore and go back enjoy, a junkyard PCM that lasted 5 months, and a reman PCM from A1 Cardone (plus the mongo zip ties). She’s been purring like a kitten each day for my eighty mile go back and forth.
One factor to take note of are the ASD and gas pump relays. i’ve had some no crap problems with the ones because of the bad PCM furnishing a partial ground . additionally the connections to the coil and cam sensor. I needed to zip tie those also. you’ll get codes to guide you to the coil, cam sensor, and ASD, but the FP relay may not code, it will cause it to stumble if the contacts are vulnerable.